Herds of angora goats graze on a farm in the semi-arid south of South Africa on open plains that stretch to the horizon. (Photo: Marco Longari/AFP)
Herds of angora goats graze on a farm in the semi-arid south of South Africa on open plains that stretch to the horizon. Their light coats sparkle in the bright sunlight of a region that has become the beating heart of the world’s mohair industry.
The Karoo, with its characteristic dirt roads and remote farms, currently supplies more than half of the world’s production of this fiber, which is prized worldwide for its luster and softness.
On the Wheatlands farm, a Cape Dutch gable with the inscription “Wheatlands 1912” bears witness to a rich history.
Lloyd Short, a seventh-generation farmer who grew up on the 7,700 hectare family farm, points to the homestead and says that it is the newest house on the property. Yet it is not the architecture or the country charm that has given Wheatlands its reputation, but rather the goats with their droopy ears, curved horns and shiny, golden fleeces.
Specialty fiber for the world market
These silky curls are not just any wool; it can fetch up to R900 per kilogram and is mainly used in knitting, often mixed with wool. Even the famous Italian mill, Vitale Barberis Canonico, known for luxury suiting fabrics, is among those who source South African mohair for their yarn.
Short explains that the quality of the fiber is closely related to the age of the animal. He says the first two clippings are the most valuable and he collects on average between one and 1.5 kilograms per animal.
The yield does increase slightly as the goats get older, but the fiber loses value over the years. Short and his brother each own around 2,000 goats and supply exclusively to a large French fashion house, which enables him to trace the origin of the fiber and protect their brand.
These silky curls are not just any wool; it can fetch up to R900 per kilogram and is mainly used in knitting, often mixed with wool. (Photo: Marco Longari/AFP)
Challenges and recovery in the industry
The industry’s reputation was seriously tested in 2018 when the animal rights organization PETA released video footage of a goat dying, after an artery was accidentally cut during shearing.
Farmers maintain that such incidents are extremely rare, but the damage was extensive. Well-known brands such as the Swedish H&M, the American Gap, as well as Zara and Topshop, immediately abandoned mohair.
Confidence only began to recover after the introduction of an independently audited certification for animal welfare.
Marco Coetzee, director of the industry’s representative organization, Mohair SouthAfrica, explains that strict processes are now followed to keep the industry’s name clean.
“Farmers go through annual audits. They are visited once a year by their brokers and then they are also audited by a third party,” says Coetzee.
Why the Karoo is the ideal home
According to industry figures, South Africa was responsible for 56% of global production in 2024. The sector supports around 30,000 jobs, hundreds of which are based in the Karoo.
It is an unlikely new home for a breed originally from Turkey. Although it remains unclear how the goats arrived here in the 19th century, the angoras now thrive on the region’s succulents.
Sean Hobson, whose family has been farming with angoras since 1865, says the environment is perfect for the animals.
“It’s an incredibly healthy area, there are wonderful wild species and sweet plants. Almost everything is tasty.”
According to Hobson, more humid regions are less suitable for the goats because of parasites and ticks that thrive in wetter areas. To protect the animals, they are treated for parasites between the biennial shearings, after which they are treated with a conditioning solution.
“This helps the fibers to form their characteristic curl,” he adds.
The road to the world market
In a warehouse near the port city of Gqeberha, the characteristic smell of a shearing shed hangs in the air. Hundreds of bales await shipment here.
Pierre van der Vyver, CEO of the broker House of Fibre, points out that the global popularity of the fiber is due to its unique physical properties.
“The world buys mohair primarily because of the shine,” says Van der Vyver. He adds that the fiber is highly sought after because it is so durable.
“It’s very strong, it doesn’t break and it doesn’t shrink.”
Together with local competitor OVK, House of Fiber controls more than 70% of the global supply, with the neighboring state of Lesotho responsible for a further 16%. Almost all buyers buy the fiber in bales, and processing is dominated by two South African firms, Samil and Stucken.
Van der Vyver is confident that South Africa will maintain its lead on the world market, despite international competition.
“The Chinese want to compete with us, but luckily there is a lot of technique involved in processing mohair.
“It’s a much slower process than what’s needed for wool processing; it’s a specialty fiber.”